Monday, 14 January 2008

More work on the frame

A couple more photos of the frame of the summer house here after the work this weekend. This will probably prove the most expensive part of the project. This is all pressure treated tannalised spruce - all FSC marked so I know it's all sustainable. Strangely, all this wood came with an EEC Plant Passport.You can see how the oven sits at the back of the summer house, and is 'half in, half out'. There's a porch roof on the back to keep it dry, and this is only covered with black plastic at the moment as I'll need to get access to the main roof when I sort the chimney out.I'll clad the sides with some 4 inch board I've obtained from a demolished fence - the roof is corrugated bitumen sheet. Hopefully with the light rigged up inside I can do some work when it's dark...


Saturday, 5 January 2008

A roof to work under

There hasn't been much time to take photos, but for the last week or so I've been building the summer house that the oven will sit at the back of. This isn't a great picture of it - I was fixing the roof sheets down when I got sick of the rain and stopped to go inside, so this is taken from inside the house. You can just about see the oven, covered in black plastic so my insulation bricks don't get saturated with rain. It's got about half a roof a roof now - hopefully finish this tomorrow if it ever stops raining...

Thursday, 3 January 2008

Testing the clay mix

I've decided to build my oven dome using a clay mix rather than firebrick. Firebrick and refractory mortar is extremely expensive round here, and I don't want to spend ages cutting firebricks to shape - I don't own a brick saw, and am reluctant to buy one just for this project. I like the idea of moulding the oven walls out of clay - this should be much quicker than the firebrick option.

Kiko Denzer's book (a must buy if you're building one of these things) recommends using a clay/sand mix for the oven dome. A potential problem with this is that the clay and sand have different rates of thermal expansion, which could lead to the sand crumbling away from the clay, into the food. My cooking's bad enough as it is without this... Instead of using sand, I'm going to use firebrick grog made from waste or 'seconds' firebrick. I've done some tests using firebrick grog (0.5-1.0 mm grade - a bit like very fine grit) and fireclay. By mixing these two I can make 'mouldable firebrick' - a mix that when dry will be the same as firebrick, but much easier to make to the right shape.

To find the right mix I started with some recipes from 'Contemporary Ceramic Formulas' by John Conrad. This gives some recipes for refractory firebrick mixes, which I'm modifying slightly here. I'm trying five mixes:
  1. 80% firebrick grog, 20% fireclay
  2. 70% firebrick grog, 30% fireclay
  3. 60% firebrick grog, 40% fireclay
  4. 50% firebrick grog, 50% fireclay
  5. 40% firebrick grog, 60% fireclay

I made all these up in small amounts with the minimum amount of water needed to get them to stick together, and had a play with them. Firstly, I tried moulding them into a ball:

Mixes 1-2 were very difficult to mould, while 4 and 5 were very easy - just like working pure clay. I then tried squishing them by planting my thumb in the middle of the ball:

Mixes 1-3 were pretty crumbly, but 4 and 5 were tough and fairly plastic. I don't think you could mould mix 1 very easily, while 3-5 would be workable. Next I formed the clay into little bricks, and stuck a fork in them in the middle. The bricks are labelled 1 to 5 with dents at the the top of the brick. By measuring the distance across the fork mark I can see how much they shrink when they dry:

I dried these at room temperature for a day or so - mixes 1 and 2 dried very quickly. I had hoped the gritty grog would help to speed drying - in old English cloam ovens fine gravel was mixed with the clay to help the clay dry quicker. I finished the drying off in a warm oven for an hour. I don't own a kiln, so instead I fired the centre of each brick with the trusty old blow torch for 10 minutes:All the pieces heated up in the middle to a cherry red colour that glowed for 10-15 seconds after I removed the torch. None of the bricks crumbled or cracked during this. Once they'd cooled, I tried crumbling the outside (unfired) part of the brick to see how strong they were:

Mixes 1 and 2 were very crumbly round the edges, and not very strong. Mixes 4 and 5 were very strong - I couldn't crush them at all. At this point I measured the shrinkage of the blocks - 1 and 2 hadn't shrunk at all, 3 had 1.5% shrinkage, 4 had 3% shrinkage, 5 had 6% shrinkage. The greater the shrinkage, the more cracking I'll get in the oven walls. Finally I soaked the bricks in water and saw how much of the clay was unfired:
Mixes 1 and 2 virtually fell apart. These were pretty light, and probably didn't conduct heat that well. Mix 5 had a solid fired core that wouldn't dissolve, with 4 almost the same but a little smaller. Mix 3 was somewhere in between. Mixes 4 and 5 felt most dense and heavy.

After all this testing, I've settled on mix 4 - 50% fireclay, 50% firebrick grog. This is plastic and mouldable, only shrinks by 3%, and seems to conduct the heat pretty well. It's also tough when it's unfired, so should prove strong enough for the dome. I now have 100kg firebrick grog and 100kg fireclay in the garage ready to go - just waiting for decent weather now. Currently minus 1 outside today...

Monday, 12 November 2007

The walls go up

It's raining a lot around here now, so it seemed to be a good time to put a roof up to work under. The plan has always been to have the oven at the back of a summer house, and since the ground slopes, I decided to build a low brick wall to support a timber framed summer house. That took about two days of brick laying, on foundations I poured a while ago.They're only four bricks high - this should keep the timber dry and stop any rot. You can see how the ground isn't level - the back wall is only a brick above the ground, while the front is four above the ground. I'll fill all the space with subsoil we're moving from elsewhere in the garden, saving me more money on skip hire.This will be a 10 foot x 10 foot base - the bolts you can see are 12mm threaded bar embedded in the mortar to bolt the base frame on. It would be a shame to build the thing only for it to blow away when the wind gets up...


Saturday, 27 October 2007

Hearth insulation

And now for the insulation. I'd decided to use Thermalite insulating blocks to give 4" of insulation under the firebrick hearth. I figured this would be a lot easier than pouring vermiculite or perlite concrete, and it was. It took about an half an hour to cut the blocks to rough shape (you can cut them with a handsaw, a bit like sawing up tough polystyrene foam), then about an hour to mortar them all in.
About as easy as it gets, and cheap - this lot cost me £12. You can see a couple of thermocouple wires here - there's already one mortared under the insulation, as I want to see how much heat gets through these things. The one arched across the top will go inside the centre firebrick in the hearth. There'll be others in the dome, in the oven space, and in the outer wall to see how much precious heat I'm losing.
The blocks suck up water like a sponge, so I'll need to get a cover over this pretty soon. Next comes the fun part - building the oven.

Hearth slab poured

I poured the hearth slab last weekend, but was too worn out after doing it to post on the blog... I took the forms off today and was pretty pleased with it.


Amazingly, it's exactly level. That or I need a new spirit level. The plastic 'skirt' method I used to hold the timber ring in place has made a strange sort of edge to the hearth slab, but it worked!
It's done a good job of holding all the concrete in, and everything is well bonded together on very uneven walls. This gives me a nice flat, level slab to start building the oven on, a bit like a blank page. The little hole near the front of the slab is where the thermocouple wires come up from the front panel - there'll be six thermocouples by the time I'm finished.






Saturday, 13 October 2007

Making the hearth form

Well, it took a while to figure out how to do it, but I've finally got the hearth formwork finished and level. I settled on making a ring of 12 3"x2" waste timber offcuts, cut with 15 degree ends to make a circle. I held the timber together with staples (pretty weak, wobbled all over the place), then clamped a ratchet strap around it. When tightened this was really strong and rigid, much to my surprise.

When I placed this on the stand and levelled it there were some pretty large gaps (>4" in parts), so the easy way to fix that was to make a black plastic 'skirt' inside the ring, and then trowel on a sloped edge of concrete. The black plastic stops the concrete falling out of the gaps. When this has set I'll pour the rest of the hearth - hopefully with no leaks.

The poured hearth slab will end up being about 5" deep in the middle (over the three block piers, and tied to them with the bent rebar), and at the 6" near the edge it will slope up to the edge of the form where there's still space for about 2" of pour.